Hidden gem- Calvi is a rustic Port town
Pretty green gardens with plump fig trees and bright yellow lemon trees were near our apartment pool. It's very quiet as the hot sun entices you into the compact, almost private pool. The host was cordial for a 10 min intro and then you are on your own for the week. The Corsicans seem to do friendly (not forced) welcomes in town or by the beach.
The tour corp /host thoughtfully stocked the fridge with tea, wine, pate, jam, bread, beach bag etc as we arrived on a Sunday. (FYI shops open at weird times due to siesta).
The highlight was the 13th century Citadelle and the fort walls that loom over the pretty Port town of Calvi. Christopher Columbus was born here, Napoleon exiled here. It's no wonder the French Foreign Legion have their base in Calvi. (Warning: ladies some hunky army men parachuting down literally).
We enjoyed scuba diving to see the B17 bomber plane from WWII sunken at one side of the Citadelle. What an absolutely incredible sight!
Another highlight was popping on/off on the local train ( 6 euro's) to various beautiful golden beaches and blue sea combo's. Lots of happy french families frolicking. My Bf didn't seem to mind the pretty Italian or French topless gals in monokini's. The snack bars at some beaches were rustic with army tarps and drift wood, easy going staff and chilled out music.
The rooms, though not my taste were basic and tidy. Beware if you have allergies to plastic flowers temples as they are nailed to the wall. Hot pink creepy bed curtains, matching bedding and carpet was too much pink for my bf (he said it reminded him of his Nan). Rural French white, worn furniture sat in 2 simple, rooms with a small, functional cooking area. It saves money but we missed a big breakie of a hotel. Alas the bed was uncomfy with lumps and way too short for bf's 6 foot frame. The air con at night was good.
Calvi's unpretentious restaurant with homey cheeses, exotic salads or pizza's seemed farm to table fresh and delicious. The seafood was tasty - who knew black squid ink sauce could taste so good?! I don't eat meat but my other half was drooling over each meal (veal, hams etc). Plus that sea view of the Citadelle!
One day returning from a beach, the train hooted its horn at us but did not stop. So we had to walk for km's in the heat along the tracks. Then the tracks stopped being accessible. So we went through campsites and wild spikey brushes until we found some French people to send us towards the road. Taxi's are not found or called easily and the bus is infrequent. Our phone didn't work and we had no water, er, not ideal. We finally reached a small highway with very narrow sides for walkers, barely. We hiked some more until we finally reach Ile aux Rousse and the last train back to Calvi at 7pm. The stillness of our garden pool delight at the apartment was looking mighty appealing that evening.
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